Food, Flood and Fishermen

“Sometimes savouring good food evokes memories. These memories flash in as you think about that moment, place or the person who has cooked that meal for you. Tasty dishes are more tasteful when we eat it in the company of good people, family and friends. It is one of those memorable experiences of the day, filled with chaos, culture and food.”

In the month of August 2019, I had gone to Banglore on vacations. I along with my brother’s family decided to visit the Hogenakkal falls. We booked a few rooms in one of the resorts situated somewhere close to this place for a night stay. This resort managed by the lady owner had few acres of dry land full of jasmine trees and roses. These were not watered for many days due to the scarcity of water in the area. An old deep and dry well was in its vicinity, Its ethnicity defined its era of construction. We strolled around the property, enjoyed the food and spent night there.

The next day, we drove to this beautiful touristy spot known as Hogenakkal waterfall. It is about hundred miles from the city of Bangalore, in the Dharampuri district of Tamil Nadu. This is also known as Smoking Rocks. Hogenakkal is derived from two Kannada words; “Hoga means smoke” and “kal means rocks”. When water gushes down with force and hits on the bottom rocks, it creates white smoke over the rocks. This is worth a watch while boating in the nearby water area. Plan was to spend a day there to watch, this waterfall in its flowing glory and take a boat ride and have lunch there. As we reached this touristy spot, it seemed crowded with visitors. People were walking with their children, old and young. Street vendors in their high pitch, were selling and bargaining with the visitors. Local police was controlling the crowd. Majority of People were talking in their local language.

Not familiar with the local language, it was difficult for us to decipher what was going around. We walked ahead to see Hogenakkal waterfall had immersed into the floods. Incessant rains in the state area had created serious flood situation. The water released from the nearby krishnasagar dam made Hoggenakkal waterfall go invisible. Instead a vast river of water was cascading thru the old thick trees at high speed. Water level had crossed the danger mark. District authority with policemen, were checking on the present flood conditions. Media reporters with cameramen took their positions for reporting the scene. Policemen were busy displaying danger signs and shouting advisory notes to people. Barriers and ropes tightened around the pathways. All boatmen/ fishermen advised to pull out their bamboo boats back on the ground. These bamboo boats are unique in their design, round in shape and can hold up to eight persons in one sitting. Barricades were set up everywhere so as not to loose lives due to negligence or excitement. The whole sight was amusing yet terrifying. Hogenakkal waterfall, which is much like Niagara fall, vast but at low height, was not visible. Its glory lost into the heavy floods. This waterfall was flowing now in its magnified river version. We couldn’t see the waterfall in its natural form.

Hoggenekkal waterfall in floods

On the side pathway, a huge establishment of fishermen was running the fish business. Makeshift shelters were set up on one side of the pathway for doing fish business. Tall bamboo shoots fastened to support these shelters. The whole business planned, managed and delivered by the fishermen community. Procuring and selling fish, cutting and cleaning, frying and delivering go in one row. Each section had a price attached to it for doing its job. Customers in huge numbers were strolling, bargaining and buying fish. It was noisy and busy place. The customers bought fish, gave it to the cutting and cleaning person, and then to the frying section. Few stalls were set up to sell rice in small bags, for persons interested in having it with fish. Tea, Snacks and Condiments sold by local vendors. The market was booming. The vendors shouting at their high pitch for attracting customers to their area of work. These fishermen had kept right kind of utensils available in their area of work, for smooth and fast work. Tumblers, Razor-sharp knives and fin graters in cutting and cleaning area. Giant round deep pans, long sieverts and pots kept in the proximity of fryers reach. The oil kept boiling on big stoves for frying purposes. Women and men doing this fish business in unison, their hands look rough and rustic, with few blisters and scars on them. Few fatigued and wrinkled faces tell years of painful hard work. The whole spectacle was enthralling.

We purchased a few pounds of fresh Rohu fish, big and fat, got it cleaned from the cutting and cleaning section. Then passed it to the lady nearby who had put up stall for frying. A composed and frail lady who knew her work, was silent and observing. Escorted by her husband, She loaded this whole lot of fish into a hot boiled oil pan for deep frying. The fish was deep-fried and caramelised to its brown texture and colour. After sprinkling some dry chilli powder on fried fish, she served us on banana leaf plates. This dry spice powder was a unique combination of red chilli powder, crushed dry fish powder and salt.

Rice being our staple food, we requested the lady to give us a plate of cooked rice. She reluctantly obliged and gave us a plate of rice at the cost of hundred rupees. Sumptuous for four of us, we enjoyed eating it with fried fish, on the sides of the riverbank. Exotic in taste and texture, the whole lot was juicy, meaty, spicy and crunchy. We enjoyed eating fish with rice, as much as we enjoyed talking about it. It was one of those best lunches we had. Simple yet so prolific.

This community of fishermen has been working in that area for many years. Each one an expert in running this fish business. It was a community working in unison with a win-win situation for all, each earning his money for the job well done. It exhibited local people, their habits, culture and food trail in one frame. The food was excellent, its taste captivating and the atmosphere alluring. It is been a few years since I had it. But the taste and flavour of the fried fish with plate of white rice still lingers in my mouth. This whole fish food culture took me back to my roots. It took me back to my hometown and to my childhood memories of my prime years where fish eating was as staple as rice. An Interesting spectacle of flood, food, culture and people in one day. A day memorable and well documented!